Fragrance Friday: ABEL takes the concept of Radical Fragrance creation to a whole new level

I’m a huge fan of Aotearoa-based, globally-celebrated fragrance house Abel, which was founded 12 years ago by industry disruptor, Frances Shoemack. Her mission from the get-go was to pioneer a new category in perfumery - 100% natural, high-performing fragrance – and as of this month, she and her team are taking that goal to a whole new level.
I was lucky enough to visit the brand’s Pōneke atelier earlier this year, and although Frances and her team hinted at something exciting in the works, it wasn’t until this week that the next chapter of Abel was officially revealed. But first, a little history.

The preternaturally stylish Frances Shoemack

Meet Abel
For those unfamiliar with the brand, consider this an Abel 101. Following a failed search for a natural perfume that was chic, modern and long lasting, Abel Odor was founded in 2013 in Amsterdam by New Zealander Frances, now based in Wellington. From day one, the brand stuck to that clear mission; to inspire positive change by making the world’s best natural perfume, without compromising on ethics or aesthetics. Working with Australasia’s only Master Perfumer, Sao Paulo-based Isaac Sinclair, Abel sets itself apart in its use of the latest natural science and its relentless position at the intersection of sustainability and minimalist luxury.
Every single ingredient, in every one of their perfumes, started its life as a plant. Their fragrances are made entirely of essential oils, extracts and plant derived scent molecules in a base of organically certified, food grade grain alcohol. And that’s it. And how do they smell? Divine – and yes, they last and last.
In 2018, the UK Financial Times quoted Abel as “well on their way to being the world’s best natural perfume”, and the brand has been featured globally in Vogue, Conde Nast and Monocle (both print and film) among others. Although based in Aotearoa, the brand boasts a retail network in more than thirty countries strong, and including iconic stores such as Dover Street Market Paris, Liberty London and Printemps in New York, all of whom I’m guessing are more than on board with the brand’s newest and greatest incarnation.

The big reveal
Over a decade in the making, Abel has officially relaunched its 100 percent natural fragrances—reformulated for performance, repackaged for sustainability, and ready to redefine the fragrance industry. This next chapter for Abel proves that the future of fragrance is not only possible, it’s already here.
Working in close collaboration with Master Perfumer Sinclair and Perfumer Dr. Fanny Grau, the brand has reformulated its entire range with a 37 percent increase in parfum concentration, delivering elevated strength, longevity, and character—without ever straying from its 100% natural, 0% petrochemical promise. Abel’s breakthrough lies in its innovative use of biotechnology, natural isolates, and upcycled ingredients, which has dramatically expanded its original palette of ingredients and now includes long lasting, precision molecules made from plants.
“Biotechnology is to fragrance what EVs are to the car industry—a renewable solution that removes the need for fossil fuels,” says the enigmatic Frances. “An estimated 95 percent of fragrance molecules come from fossil fuel-derived petrochemicals. We’re proving fossil fuels in fragrance should be a thing of the past. In a world where reformulation means cutting corners, for Abel it means investing more. We’ve increased the concentration and quality, while lowering our impact.”
“We’ve used the latest biotechnological advances to push the boundaries of what’s possible in natural perfumery,” adds Sinclair. “The scents remain bold, nuanced, and instantly recognisable, but now with even more lasting power.”

And then there’s the next gen packaging
Abel’s bold new visual identity is matched by a pioneering sustainable packaging system: glass bottles made with post-consumer recycled glass, biodegradable caps, and mono-material outer boxes made entirely from post-consumer recycled materials. Behind the scenes, a fully restructured supply chain has resulted in a staggering 96 percent reduction in the carbon footprint on the brand’s paper packaging, setting a new benchmark for sustainability in fragrance.
“This is the moment we’ve been building towards for more than a decade,” says the founder. “We’re not just making natural fragrance, we’re reshaping the industry.”

I could not be more in awe of what the brand has achieved, and you will be too! Abel’s new collection of nine Eau de Parfums is available now at select global stockists as well as online at abelfragrance.com.

Launch campaign imagery by Ana Kraš.