Learning a little more about Darphin...

I recently spent an afternoon in the Ponsonby branch of the WORLDbeauty stores, which is always a sensory overload of the most delicious kind. As well as being there to tuck into a few macaroons and swill some iced tea with their dashing PR man Matt, my visit was also timed to coincide with a very exciting beauty announcement. The occasion was to mark the expansion of the super luxurious Darphin range into all of the WORLDbeauty stores, which is a cause for a celebration if ever I heard one. The WORLDbeauty stores are Darphin’s only retail presence in New Zealand, which speaks wonders for the credibility the WORLD brand has in the sphere of beauty as well as fashion. The Darphin team are a very choosy lot, and their presence in WORLD is largely down to Francis Hooper’s persistence in proving their mettle.
If you haven’t heard about the brand before, here is a little potted history. In 1958 , French skincare authority Pierre Darphin launched an innovative, holistic skincare programme that relied on smell and feel as much as it did on high performance. He realized that the beauty of a woman was not only about how her skin or body looked, but also how she felt about herself. He dedicated his research to women's well being, offering them only the best of plant and aromatic technology to create a state of inner and outer beauty, harnessing the powers of essential oils well before it became de rigeur in the beauty industry. In addition to carefully selecting ingredients, he believed in treating each skin condition with a unique custom care approach. After a thorough analysis of a client, he would give her an individual tailor-made recommendation to match her particular needs at every stage. Today the Darphin approach to skincare continues to be centred around the use of carefully selected plant extracts and botanical aromas to provide an extraordinary feeling, and extraordinary results. Whilst at the Ponsonby store, resident Darphin expert and oracle when it comes to all things beauty, Mary Castles gives my skin the once over, before recommending some products that would work wonders on me. One is the dreadfully exotic and fabulously fragranced 8 Flower Nectar Aromatic Dry Oil (pictured), a delicious mix derived from eight exotic flowers around the world and enriched with essential vitamins and Omegas 3 and 6. Its goal in life is to rejuvenate, nourish and detoxify skin, as well as minimise the appearance of lines and wrinkles and restore the skin’s own natural radiance, suppleness and resilience. Suitable for all skin types as a serum, it is simply amazing on the nose as well, being as fragrant as they come. But enough words, get into a WORLDbeauty store near you and have a sniff – I guarantee that you’ll be charmed.

Daily delight: Abbey Lee for Vogue Germany

Talking beauty with... blogstar Rumi Neely

Fashiontoast.com blogger and model Rumi Neely travelled to Auckland last year to attend New Zealand Fashion Week and became a big fan of some of my favourite local labels, like Stolen Girlfriends Club and Deadly Ponies. With a blog that sees around 50,000 people a day check in to see what she’s wearing, she changed up to three times a day at NZFW and really raised the bar when it came to working an outfit in the front row. She was also immaculately groomed throughout, and really didn’t look like someone that spends a lot of time in planes! I had a chat to her recently about her picks from the world of beauty, where she seems to move as effortlessly as she does when she’s working some serious fashion.

When it comes to beauty, would you say you're high or low maintenance?
I'm not obsessive about beauty the way I am about fashion… I have a few staple products that I stick to, but I still love to try out new ones. Mostly when the packaging wins me over! Sad.

Are you a lipstick or a gloss fan?
I can go for weeks without touching either if it's up to me… but I use Aquaphor healing ointment every day.

And I read you have a new love of lashes, yes?
Well like most other girls, mascara is the one thing I don't leave home without putting on. Maybelline's Volum' Express is my favourite.

Do you have a signature scent, or do you flirt with a few?
I'm not really too big on perfume… it's all about the pheromones. No, just kidding! Kind of. The only one I like right now is Stella by Stella McCartney, in the roll-on tube.

What is the one beauty item you can't live without, your Desert Island pick?
Sunscreen!

And finally, what makes you feel really beautiful?
The beach... salty hair, sticky skin, the whole thing.

Daily delight: finally landing on Cloud Nine

I recently popped into the Servilles Chancery salon for an induction session with senior stylist Ivan Lee into the latest and greatest innovation for hair in many years, the Cloud Nine iron. Hype has been massive for these little babies for some time now, mainly due to their pedigree as the next generation iron straight from the original creators of the ghd. Servilles have been the first and only salons in New Zealand to carry the irons thus far, and Paul Serville has told me that they really are revolutionary, which is no faint praise indeed!
Cloud Nine’s major point of difference from an end user’s point of view is that they style in a variety of ways without the need for searing heat – an absolute bonus for people with fine hair, or those that can’t live without a daily swipe of the iron. The give you total control and - from what I saw - amazing results, but also care for the health and condition of your hair due to the addition of an innovative temperature gauge. The six heat settings also offer unlimited styling options, including just smoothing a blow wave, adding volume, flicks and waves, enhancing shine and if you must, just playing it straight.
The second super exciting innovation from Cloud Nine is their black patented ceramic plates, which glide through the hair like you wouldn’t believe and contain a “secret ingredient” that enhances shine. And the third – an automatic hibernation mode that kicks in when the irons are left unused for 30 minutes – how amazing is that? If I had a dollar for every time I’d had to call home thinking I’d left my irons on I’d be living it up in the Bahamas right now, so this is a godsend for the super busy (or perhaps, absentminded?) like me. When in this mode they’ll cool down to what the creators call “box temperature”, and only reheat once they are switched off and then on again.
Add to this some handy extras like Universal Voltage and a swivel cord that prevents twists and tangles, and you have one very desirable beauty tool. Oh, and they also come in three sizes: standard, wide and micro, which is a perfect little instrument to throw in your bag for touch ups, or if you have shorter hair or an unruly fringe. As a frequent traveller, the micros would be a godsend for me, whilst at home I’d be all over the wider set like you wouldn’t believe. I want them all!
Ivan took to my thick, long hair with the wide irons, and with zero product employed created some seriously deadly waves, which lasted well into the night and most of the next day. I was beyond impressed, and now count myself among Cloud Nine’s most rabid, raving fans. Next step: to get my hands on a set of these babies!

Kerastase + Saben? Oh, happy day!

I’m a huge fan of Saben bags - even my son’s diaper bag was a black leather Saben number back in the day – so I was super impressed at their latest collaboration with Kerastase that will see some very lucky peeps take home a gorgeous piece of Saben for free. Across the month of August, Kérastase is running an in-store promotion with Saben, who have produced a stylish, studded and limited edition clutch as a gift with purchase. Worth $100, the Saben clutch comes complimentary with the purchase of any three Kérastase smooth, plumping or shine products as prescribed by your stylist. Great hair and a great treat? Love that! Get in there while stocks last – this promo is one of the best I’ve seen in a while…

Why you REALLY need to try: Pureology

I am a passionate advocate of beauty products that are as kind on the environment and my body as possible, but am definitely not of the seaweed sandal, “I make my own moisturiser in the tub” sector of the society, preferring to leave that side of thing to the truly conscious experts out there. One of these experts is Jim Markham, who created the Pureology haircare line in Irvine, California in 2001. The very clever chap revolutionized colour care and gave it a conscience, launching the first 100 per cent Vegan formulas and ZeroSulfate shampoos for colour-treated hair to an eager audience of consumers much like myself. Jim identified a need among professional colourists and their clients for gentle, naturally-based products that deliver superior performance and keep your colour looking great for longer, and today, Pureology is the number one colour care brand in the USA. And as an added bonus, the company are committed to delivering superior hair colour care through the most indulgent products and services, while preserving and promoting environmental sustainability. 
The core values of Jim and his team have led the company to become one of the first prestigious haircare brands that embraces and pioneers sustainability. “We continuously strive to achieve the most decadent experience while preserving our environment with sustainable practices,” they say, which is about as eco luxe as it gets!
They have several systems on offer depending on your hair type, and right now I’m using SuperSmooth, which is colour care for unmanageable, colour-treated hair in need of intense smoothing and discipline as a result of multiple chemical processes. This system includes their patented AntiFadeComplex, which is a blend of potent antioxidants and full spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreens to maximise colour retention and protect from heat styling damage. It is also ZeroSulfate., meaning that it’s blissfully free of harsh colour-stripping sulfates and salts, making it the ideal partner for my regular Keratin Smoothing treatments. The shampoo and conditioner also both have yummy natural ingredients like Camellia Oil, Sesame Oil and Organic Shea butter for extra smoothing properties, as well as Geranium to intensify shine.
And last but by no means least, where can you get this magic stuff? Well I was put onto the brand by the gorgeous Louise Pilkington, owner of Servilles salon in Ponsonby Road. Drop by there if you’re in the neighbourhood, or got to the brand's website and check the salon locator to find a stockist near you.

Daily delight: NIMUE Exfoliating Enzyme

Anyone who knows me knows that I warn everyone I meet off facial scrubs, mainly because who wants to scour off a layer of skin when our skin naturally thins as we age? A friend of mine who is a cosmetic surgeon constantly reminds me of this fact, and says that he’s seen awful examples of women who have spent years scrubbing their skin and having microdermabrasion, only to end up with severely thinned, lined skin that is a mass of bluish veins. Not my idea of fifty and fabulous, let me tell you! I do love a non-abrasive method of removing dead skin cells however, and am always championing great products that do this with minimal aggravation to the skin. The latest I’ve found is by South African skincare brand Nimue, and it’s simply called Exfoliating Enzyme. It works by utilising a combination of Papaya and Pineapple enzymes suspended in a non abrasive gel base to detach dead skin cells gently and promote cell renewal. As well as refining skin texture and leaving you with smooth and radiant skin, regular use of this baby also optimises penetration of active ingredients, making your skincare work that much more efficiently. Used twice or three times a week, it’s great for environmentally damaged skin, hyperpigmented skin or problematic skin, and is incredibly gentle from what I can tell thus far. Start by applying a small amount to clean dry skin. Leave on the skin for two minutes then activate the product with heat and water by massaging it in with wet fingertips, for at least 3-5 minutes. Last up, leave on the skin for an additional two minutes then rinse well. Instantly radiant skin, just like that!

If you're near a WORLDbeauty store tomorrow:

Talking with an expert: Dr. Teresa Cattin...

Recently I had the good fortune to sit down and have a coffee with Dr. Teresa Cattin, who I’d heard about for years - and always in rather glowing terms – as being New Zealand’s best cosmetic physician. A Medical Practitioner (MSc, MBBCh, FRNZCGP, FNZCAM) and a member of the Appearance Medicine Society of Australasia, she is also the owner of FaceWorks Clinic in Albany, Auckland. As well as being president of the New Zealand College of Appearance Medicine, she is a national trainer in Botox Cosmetic and Juvéderm, training other doctors in New Zealand and Australia. Needless to say, she is a clearly a woman who knows who stuff when it comes to needles and ant-ageing, and I grilled her for the latest and greatest innovations in the industry, as well as the changing face of beauty.
When asked for the low down on the cutting edge happenings in the world of Botox and fillers now, Teresa doesn’t hesitate before waxing long and lyrically about how far the likes of Botox have come since the days of being just a product used to freeze the forehead. “The products we have on hand now are so superior to the ones we started with,” she says, “and anything with hylauronic acid is just a joy to work with: safer, longer lasting, softer and more importantly, can be used in a variety of ways.” She says that her work has gone so far beyond freezing and filling that it’s not funny, and she and her peers’ understanding of the ageing face has evolved to the point where the companies creating new products are struggling to keep up. When asked if consumers are demanding a more dynamic face, she says “absolutely, and then we’re demanding more from the pharmaceutical companies as a direct result”. She says that when the industry was in its infancy a lot of influence came down from the US, where the “wind tunnel” facelift had been big business, and beauty was equated with being line free. “Now we know that being completely without wrinkles doesn’t make you look any better,” she says with a smile, “and in most cases, can make you look really peculiar. A lot of the focus now is going in under the skin rather than on the surface, and the main trend is creating volume in the face.” Now experts are looking at the likes of shadows and where light reflects on the face, as well as shape in general. “IF you look at an older woman’s face the shape is often more like an inverted triangle,” she explains, “whereas a young woman’s will have a beautiful soft oval shape. One of the most rejuvenating things you can do is smooth out the jawline and try and recreate that oval for a client, which can achieve an incredible result without even touching a wrinkle”. Her favourite filler for this sort of work is Juvéderm, which she says is the “next generation filler as well as much longer lasting. She says that as we get older and the fat disappears from our face the light reflection gets lower and lower, making the face look dull and drawn. Shadowing in the tear trough in particular makes a face look incredibly tired, and filling in that can make a much bigger impact than getting rid of the surrounding wrinkles ever could. It must be asked: is addressing a loss of volume in the face a massive investment? “It doesn’t have to be, and if a client has looked after their skin well it makes things that much simpler again,” says the doctor. She says that a lot can be done for around $800-$1200, and the results can last up to twelve months.

Hallelujah, Eve Lom lands at last!

News of the availability of Eve Lom’s range of killer, high performance skincare products Down Under is definitely a cause for celebration. The newest brand to land at Mecca Cosmetica, the collection is the creation of one of the most respected and sought-after beauty professionals alive today, Eve Lom. Born in Czechoslovakia, Eve met the renowned skin specialist Georgette Klinger in Hollywood in the early 1980s and began her career as a facialist. She subsequently relocated to London where she studied anatomy, nutrition and massage techniques, expanding her repertoire to also include acupuncture after time training with the masters in China. In 1984, the first Eve Lom salon opened in London, and not longer after her range began to evolve following the media frenzy that surrounded the release of her cult Cleanser, which Vogue called "probably the best cleanser in the world". Fast forward to 2010 and the products that make up the pared-down regime Eve recommends are available here, which is dreadfully exciting for beauty fans the length and breadth of New Zealand and Australia.
My first foray into the world of Eve Lom is via a pot of her Kiss Mix, which I’m ploughing my way through in a rather speedy fashion. I haven't yet had the pleasure of using that very special cleanser, but if this puppy is anything to go on, it will live up to the hype and more. Kiss Mix is a richly moisturising pot of goodness that tends to chapped and dry lips, and also includes the natural sunscreen Zinc Oxide to protect lips from UV rays, and tingling menthol for an added pick-me-up. With its moisturising and healing ingredients, Kiss Mix is an absolute must for everybody, including the blokes. It is also a year-round product as it keeps lips moisturised and protected from UV rays in summer and biting winds in winter. It’s is great to use with lipstick to add shine to your lips or on its own as a moisturising base, and is a brand new handbag essential in my universe. Get thee a pot ASAP.

Daily delight: maybe it's Maybelline

I’m a sucker for a good mascara, and because I don’t wear make up often, I like one that performs and makes my lashes look super sized when I do. I’m usually a slave to the likes of M.A.C’s Pro Lash and Smashbox’s Lash DNA, but just recently I’ve been wooed by a much less expensive beast... That’ll be some of the key players in Maybelline New York’s revamped XXL Pro line, which is inspired by makeup artists’ routines and tricks. These are a bunch of easy two step mascaras that deliver some truly serious lashes, the results of which you get to choose depending on formulation: volume, curl, intensity or length. The XXL Pro range is also available in a variety of shades and in waterproof versions. The first, XXL Pro Volume, intensifies lashes for up to six times the volume and 40 per cent longer lashes, which is no mean feat. XXL Pro 24Hr Bold delivers extreme volume – up to eleven times the normal volume of your lashes, while XXL Pro Curl curves lashes for 12 hours while delivering a 45° curl. My favourite so far though must be the super glam XXL Pro Extensions, which makes your lashes look up to 85 per cent longer while still feeling very touchable and not at all stiff or sticky. This stuff has totally won me over, and at less than 25 bucks will possibly win me over time and time again. Nice work, Maybelline!

Beauty inspiration: Bardot/Birkin, 1973

Daily delight: La Prairie Cellular Lip Renewal Concentrate

A skincare brand known for its groundbreaking – and often pricey – products, La Prairie is often at the forefront of research into new scientific innovations for those that worship at its sleek silver altar. It also prides itself on highly active products targeting very specific concerns, and carries the mantle of “the Rolls Royce of skincare brands” very well. One of their many skincare subsets is the Swiss Specialists range, which functions much as a hospital’s Intensive Care department would for your skin. These are La Prairie’s “care givers”, treatments aimed at relieving dryness and dullness caused by stress, fatigue, exposure to sun and environmental pollutants – and yep, age. They moisturize and nourish, producing what they say are immediate results in the form of firmer, smoother, younger-looking skin. A product from the range that I’m trialling right now is the Cellular Lip Renewal Concentrate, a total retexturising treatment that helps re-plump and rejuvenate your lips. It gently exfoliates, moisturises and conditions the delicate skin, while providing protection. It includes an advanced Triple Restore Complex, which helps to reduce oxidation damage, rebuilds the lips’ moisture barrier and stimulatea the production of collagen and elastin. All sounds pretty good to me! The multi-faceted concentrate not only restores cumulative damage but also revives the lips’ natural colour (which I’ve found fades with age), plumpness and vitality. Apply a small amount to your lips morning and evening and watch it do its magic. Oh, and if you’re getting ready to apply a face full of slap, allow it to dry before applying your lip colour or things can get a little messy... in the most fabulous way, of course!

In love with Oribe’s old school Hollywood glamour for Armani Privé

Backstage at the Armani Privé Fall 2010 couture show in Paris, iconic hairstylist Oribe channeled old Hollywood glamour, smoothing and curling each model’s hair into thick, luxurious manes with lots of body and sophisticated shine.
“The hair at Armani Privé was super‐soft and glamorous…it’s rich‐looking with a bit of texture,” he said after the show. “It’s a very blown‐out look that almost sweeps into the models’ faces. We kept a little curl at the front, with everything mostly straight at the back. We adapted the looks to let each girl’s personality show through.”
I personally think the look was totally perfect for Armani Privé as well as easily achievable for most of us long haired ladies, golden-hued or not. When asked how to recreate this soft and sexy little number at home, he told me, “start with a really soft blowout, making sure to keep quality texture”. His own brand Royal Blowout can create that soft effect. “You should be able to move the hair…there should be nothing stiff about it whatsoever,” he added. Next up, simply spray his Imperméable Anti‐Humidity Spray - or similar - all over to finish the look. “The key,” Oribe adds, “is to keep the hair really soft with beautiful movement.”
* All images come courtesy of Style.com

Daily delight: Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate

I’ve just come back from a whirlwind less-than-48 hour trip to the glorious Australian city of Melbourne, and I’ll just say that it was one of those ones where a good night’s sleep just wasn’t on the agenda! And sleep was most definitely on my mind after attending a yoga workshop last week lead by local fitness name Mande White, which was in aid of the release of Kiehl’s brand new Midnight Recovery Concentrate.
Already a runaway hit in the US – where it is outselling their legendary Ultra Facial Moisturiser by a ratio of 3-1 – this lavender scented little baby was specifically formulated to biologically replicate skin’s natural lipids for optimal skin repair during the night. During the day skin’s function is to protect itself against internal and external aggressors. At night it needs to regenerate, repair and replenish what is has lost as a result of daily stresses. Kiehl’s chemists developed a powerhouse blend of active botanical and essential oils that work all night to replenish lipids for a fresher and more radiant appearance by morning. After two years of research on the repair activity of essential and botanical oils, Kiehl’s developed this anhydrous (“water-free”) concentration of Squalane, night-blooming Evening Primrose and essential oils including therapeutic Lavender. The formulation also contains Coriander and Rose Hip Seed Oils, which when combined, provides a complete blend of Omegas (Omega 3, 6 and 9). The clever little wonder boosts the repair and regeneration of skin when it is naturally programmed to best absorb active ingredients, typically between midnight to 4 a.m. As an added bonus, the potent elixir is 99 per cent naturally derived and paraben-free, and the recyclable dropper bottle has a beautiful old school feel that looks a treat in the bathroom. Love that!
To apply dispense two-three drops of Midnight Recovery Concentrate onto the top of a clean hand.
Tap fingertips into the oil lightly and then pat - not rub - gently on to the cheeks, forehead and chin. Lastly, lay your weary head on a pillow and get to it!