Tretinoin: what’s the tea, and why all the hype?
I recently attended the local launch of ReTrieve cream, a fully funded prescription medicine for the treatment of mild to moderate acne that is also prescribed in New Zealand for the treatment of sun-damaged skin. Unless you’ve been hiding under a social media rock you will also be very familiar with its name, with no less than 130,000 posts and counting currently extolling the virtues of its key active ingredient – tretinoin.
Okay, so what exactly is tretinoin?
In a nutshell, tretinoin is a highly potent, prescription-only retinoid that stimulates new skin cell growth so that new, healthier cells can replace and push out the dead skin cells. This speeds up skin regeneration, making it especially attractive as you leave your thirties and are looking for help with the likes of fine lines and other signs of premature ageing.
In the hierarchy of retinoids (a.k.a. the best anti-aging molecule in many humble opinions), it is the one that dermatologists have crowned the gold standard. Those deep in their quest to find a treatment for serious breakouts are most likely already familiar with the vitamin A derivative, but as evidenced, tretinoin does more than just keep skin clear.
So, is it better to use retinol and/or tretinoin?
While both your old favourite retinol and tretinoin are technically retinoids (a catch-all term for all vitamin A-based products) and appear similar at first glance (they both address pretty much the same most pressing premature-ageing and acne skin concerns), there’s a difference between the two.
First of all, tretinoin is a prescription retinoid that can target both acne and signs of premature-ageing, while retinol is an over-the-counter retinoid that can help with both but to a very different degree. Key here is potency.
All retinoids work by converting to retinoic acid, the active that affects our skin cells. Retinol, requires two conversion steps before turning into retinoic acid, whereas tretinoin is already an active form of retinoic acid and doesn’t need those extra conversion steps. This makes tretinoin the more powerful ingredient between the two.
Can everyone use it?
Because it aids in boosting collagen production, studies have shown that tretinoin will strengthen your skin’s elasticity to target fine lines, firm sagging skin, and smooth out uneven texture, but it’s important to remember that this level of potency means it’s not suitable for everyone or all skin types.
Some side effects include redness, dryness, and peeling—especially during the first couple of weeks after you start using it. This is because retinoids increase cell turnover and decrease the stickiness of skin cells, which can make the skin more fragile.
Many experts advise those with rosacea or very sensitive skin to look for safer alternatives that won’t aggravate the skin, and it goes without saying that like all forms of vitamin A, people who are pregnant or breastfeeding are also advised against using it.
How do I apply it?
Like retinol, you’ll need to start very slow with tretinoin, perhaps just applying the tiniest dot twice a week until you find out how you skin tolerates it.
Then when it looks like things are going according to plan, you’ll want to use just a pea-sized amount for your entire face after you cleanse. Make sure you lock it in with a moisturiser afterwards, a critical step in protecting the skin barrier and reducing irritation.
You can also consider the “sandwich method” of layering moisturiser, then tretinoin, and locking it in with another layer of moisturiser, or even just mixing it in your moisturiser to help offset any negative side effects.
Essentials to know
You should be using SPF every day regardless of your routine, but it’s truly a non-negotiable when using tretinoin because your skin will become more sensitive to the sun.
It’s also advisable to be extra careful when using other harsh active ingredients like as alpha hydroxy- and beta hydroxy acids, as well as vitamin C, as it may cause more irritation. If you’re using tretinoin at night, it is better to save your other active ingredients in the morning.
Main photo by Huha Inc. on Unsplash
In a nutshell, tretinoin is a highly potent, prescription-only retinoid that stimulates new skin cell growth so that new, healthier cells can replace and push out the dead skin cells. This speeds up skin regeneration, making it especially attractive as you leave your thirties and are looking for help with the likes of fine lines and other signs of premature ageing.
In the hierarchy of retinoids (a.k.a. the best anti-aging molecule in many humble opinions), it is the one that dermatologists have crowned the gold standard. Those deep in their quest to find a treatment for serious breakouts are most likely already familiar with the vitamin A derivative, but as evidenced, tretinoin does more than just keep skin clear.
So, is it better to use retinol and/or tretinoin?
While both your old favourite retinol and tretinoin are technically retinoids (a catch-all term for all vitamin A-based products) and appear similar at first glance (they both address pretty much the same most pressing premature-ageing and acne skin concerns), there’s a difference between the two.
First of all, tretinoin is a prescription retinoid that can target both acne and signs of premature-ageing, while retinol is an over-the-counter retinoid that can help with both but to a very different degree. Key here is potency.
All retinoids work by converting to retinoic acid, the active that affects our skin cells. Retinol, requires two conversion steps before turning into retinoic acid, whereas tretinoin is already an active form of retinoic acid and doesn’t need those extra conversion steps. This makes tretinoin the more powerful ingredient between the two.
Can everyone use it?
Because it aids in boosting collagen production, studies have shown that tretinoin will strengthen your skin’s elasticity to target fine lines, firm sagging skin, and smooth out uneven texture, but it’s important to remember that this level of potency means it’s not suitable for everyone or all skin types.
Some side effects include redness, dryness, and peeling—especially during the first couple of weeks after you start using it. This is because retinoids increase cell turnover and decrease the stickiness of skin cells, which can make the skin more fragile.
Many experts advise those with rosacea or very sensitive skin to look for safer alternatives that won’t aggravate the skin, and it goes without saying that like all forms of vitamin A, people who are pregnant or breastfeeding are also advised against using it.
How do I apply it?
Like retinol, you’ll need to start very slow with tretinoin, perhaps just applying the tiniest dot twice a week until you find out how you skin tolerates it.
Then when it looks like things are going according to plan, you’ll want to use just a pea-sized amount for your entire face after you cleanse. Make sure you lock it in with a moisturiser afterwards, a critical step in protecting the skin barrier and reducing irritation.
You can also consider the “sandwich method” of layering moisturiser, then tretinoin, and locking it in with another layer of moisturiser, or even just mixing it in your moisturiser to help offset any negative side effects.
Essentials to know
You should be using SPF every day regardless of your routine, but it’s truly a non-negotiable when using tretinoin because your skin will become more sensitive to the sun.
It’s also advisable to be extra careful when using other harsh active ingredients like as alpha hydroxy- and beta hydroxy acids, as well as vitamin C, as it may cause more irritation. If you’re using tretinoin at night, it is better to save your other active ingredients in the morning.
Main photo by Huha Inc. on Unsplash
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